I break vintage Omega down to parts — and tell you exactly what’s inside.
I’m not a watchmaker. I spent forty-five years as a mechanic, and my fun was always taking things apart, not putting them back together. So I do the other half of the trade.
Movements come across my bench, go under a trinocular microscope, and come apart. I identify every component, grade the wear, and photograph it at 40x. If you’re about to buy a vintage Omega and you’re not sure what you’re looking at, send it to me first.
Movement ID
US$25.00
- Calibreidentified
- Case & movementmatched or married
- Dialfactory or refinished
- Serialdated
- Weargraded, with photos
- Turnaroundone day
Phone photos are fine. I’ll tell you what I can see and what I can’t — if the photos won’t answer it, I’ll say so and you pay nothing.
What to photograph
- The movement, whole, straight down
- Balance and bridge area, as close as your phone will focus
- The serial number stamped on the bridge
- The dial, straight down, no glare
- Inside the caseback
- The case, outside, both sides
Calibres I know
30mm family — 30T2, 260, 261, 262, 265, 266, 267, 268, 269, 280, 281, 283, 284, 285, 286
Bumper automatics — 330, 332, 342, 344, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355
5xx series — 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 550, 551, 552, 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565
7xx series — 750, 751, 752
Bumper automatics — 330, 332, 342, 344, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355
5xx series — 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 550, 551, 552, 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565
7xx series — 750, 751, 752